B58 Racing

Buying guide · Gleb Blekher

B58 Oil Filter Housing Gasket Replacement: Gen 1 F-Chassis, Gen 2 G-Chassis and the GR Supra

Short answer: The B58 oil filter housing bolts to the intake side of the block, near the back of the engine. It carries both oil and coolant, because the oil cooler (heat exchanger) is mounted on it. When its gaskets harden, you get oil, coolant or both leaking down the back of the engine. Fixing it means draining the oil and coolant, moving or removing the DME and wiring tray, usually pulling the intake manifold, and undoing six captive E10 bolts. It's a long day for a first-timer. Most people replace the whole plastic housing while they're in there, not just the gaskets. Prime the oil before the first start, then vacuum-fill and bleed the cooling system.

I'm Gleb Blekher. I run B58 Racing out of Dallas, TX. The oil filter housing is the most common leak we hear about on high-mileage B58s, and a lawsuit filed this year has a lot of owners asking about it. This guide pulls together BMW's own service bulletins, the parts catalogs, two DIY videos and what owners report on the forums. Where the sources don't agree, or don't say, I'll tell you.

Who this guide is for

This covers the factory B58 in three families:

FamilyCarsEngineNotes
Gen 1 F-chassisM140i (F20), M240i (F22/F23), 340i (F30), 440i (F32/F33/F36)B58B30M0Housing 11428583895 (B58A). Verify by VIN
Gen 2 G-chassisM340i (G20), M440i (G22/G23/G26), M240i (G42), Z4 M40i (G29)B58TUHousing part number varies by car. Check your VIN
GR Supra 3.0A90/A91B58TUToyota part numbers. Check with a Toyota dealer

Not sure which engine you have? Read our B58 Gen 1 vs Gen 2 guide first. The 540i, 740i, X3 M40i and X4 M40i use the same gasket set, per the parts listings below. We didn't find any information on 2025 and newer B58 cars, so check the parts catalog for your VIN before you order.

Symptoms

  • Oil or coolant at the back of the engine on the intake (driver's) side. ECS calls a leak there on the B58 "probably the culprit." Look below the housing, on the oil cooler and on top of the subframe.
  • Coolant loss or a low-coolant warning. The housing seals coolant passages as well as oil passages, so a failed seal can drop coolant with no sign of oil.
  • Burning smell. One DIY video lists a burning oil smell along with oil and coolant leaks. Oil dripping onto hot parts will smell before you see a puddle.
  • Coolant in the oil. The lawsuit described below alleges that a failed housing can let coolant into the oil sump. We didn't find a BMW document that confirms this happens on the B58. If your oil looks milky, or the coolant level keeps dropping with no visible leak, stop driving and have the car checked. A head gasket or other internal failure can look the same.
  • A filter that breaks during an oil change. This one isn't a gasket leak, but it lands you in the same job. BMW SIB 11 03 21 says that on all B58 variants, the paper filter can tear and leave its plastic base stuck in the housing. In that case BMW tells dealers to replace the complete housing, not to fish out the pieces.

The 2026 class action

Here is what we could verify from the court filing itself.

  • Case: Eiger, Cherry and Fucillo v. Bayerische Motoren Werke AG and BMW of North America, LLC, No. 2:26-cv-00753, U.S. District Court for the District of New Jersey. The complaint was filed January 23, 2026.
  • Vehicles named: 2014 through 2021 model year BMW 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 Series, X1, X2, X3 and X4, plus MINI Cooper, Clubman and Countryman, "equipped with the B46, B48 and/or B58 engine." The Toyota GR Supra isn't named.
  • Claims: Breach of express and implied warranty, plus the consumer protection laws of Illinois, North Carolina and California. The plaintiffs say the housing should last more than 150,000 miles and that repairs cost "between $2,000.00 and upwards of $3,500.00."
  • The defect alleged: CarComplaints' summary of the complaint says the plaintiffs blame both the polycarbonate housing and its gaskets. The claim is that both get brittle from heat cycles, that the inner walls between the oil and coolant passages can fail or warp, and that coolant can leak externally or into the oil sump.
  • Status: These are allegations, not findings. As of late October 2026 we didn't find a ruling, a certified class or a settlement. Check the docket before relying on any of this.

One thing that gets mixed up: news coverage of the lawsuit also mentions BMW SIB 11 10 25, "Coolant Leaking From Oil Filter Housing" (December 2025). We read that bulletin. It applies only to cars with the B46D, B48P or XB1G four-cylinder engines. It doesn't cover the B58.

Difficulty, time and whether you need a lift

  • Difficulty: 4 out of 5. No special skills, but a lot of connectors, brittle plastic clips and hoses, two bolts you can't see, and a cooling system that has to be bled properly.
  • Time: plan on a full day, and maybe a weekend the first time. This is our estimate. We didn't find a published DIY time we trust. ECS calls the job "labor intensive," and its how-to video runs about 47 minutes even with the steps edited down. A G30 540i owner on Bimmerpost reported a dealer quote of 11 shop hours for the housing.
  • Intake on or off: the sources disagree. ECS removes the intake manifold on a 340i, and so do the Bimmerpost DIY writers. A second DIY video shows the job on a 2017 340i without removing the intake, working around it after moving the DME, the wiring tray and several coolant hoses. Leaving the intake on saves time but gives you less room for the two hidden bolts. Pulling it gives you room and a chance to replace the intake gaskets.
  • Lift: not required. ECS says so too. You do need to get under the car to drain oil and coolant and remove the splash shield.
  • Transmission cooler: ECS says BMW's procedure has you remove it, but ECS reached the lowest housing bolt with extensions and a swivel and left the cooler in place.

Tools

These are the tools shown in the two videos and the forum write-ups. Your car may differ by year and options, so have a full metric and Torx set on hand.

  • E10 E-Torx socket (1/4" drive). Used for the six housing bolts and the intake manifold bracket bolts.
  • Long extensions plus a swivel or wobble extension. You need these for the two housing bolts you can't see. Owners say the lowest one, near the transmission cooler lines, is the hardest bolt on the job.
  • Oil filter cap socket. The sources disagree on size. ECS uses a 32 mm socket on the factory cap, and the other DIY video lists 27 mm. Check yours before you start.
  • 8 mm and 10 mm sockets for the DME tray, battery terminal, splash shield and intake manifold bolts.
  • T20 and T30 Torx for the wiring-harness brackets and trim.
  • Pick set, curved needle-nose pliers and trim tools for hose clips and connectors.
  • 1/4" and 3/8" drive torque wrenches.
  • Coolant pressure tester and a vacuum-fill tool. ECS uses both. BMW recommends vacuum filling, according to ECS.
  • Battery charger or maintainer for the coolant bleed. It can run 15 minutes with the ignition on.
  • Compressed air, rags, gloves, drain pans for both oil and coolant, and Scotch-Brite for cleaning the mating surface.
  • Zip-top or anti-static bags for the DME and power distribution module.

Parts list

Use your VIN to confirm every part number in a BMW parts catalog (ETK). BMW's own bulletins tell dealers to do the same, because parts vary with equipment.

Gaskets only (the minimum):

  • Oil filter housing to block gasket set: BMW 11428583896. BimmerWorld describes it as "the set of gaskets between the oil filter housing (OFH) and the engine block." It lists Gen 1 F-chassis cars, Gen 2 G-chassis cars and the Z4 M40i. We couldn't confirm the Toyota part number for the Supra. Ask a Toyota dealer to look it up by VIN.
  • Oil cooler (heat exchanger) to housing gasket set: BMW 11428583897. This seals the cooler to the housing. It's a different part from the one above, and some retailer listings mix the two up. Replace it if you take the cooler off the housing.

Full housing (what most owners do):

  • Gen 1 (B58A): BMW 11428583895. BimmerWorld lists it with the cap, filter, gaskets and hardware. The oil cooler is sold separately, so you move your old one over or buy a new one.
  • Gen 2 G20/G22/G26/G42 with the Motorsport Engineering Package (option ZTK): BMW 11429488747, per BimmerWorld. For Gen 2 cars without ZTK, and for the Supra, we didn't verify a number. Look it up by VIN.

Also have on hand:

  • A new oil filter element, plus the oil BMW approves for your car (or Toyota for the Supra). Fill to the capacity in your owner's manual or BMW repair info.
  • Coolant of the type BMW specifies for your car. Ask a dealer, or check BMW repair info. ECS's tip is to put back the same type that came out, and BimmerWorld also says to have fresh coolant ready.
  • Intake manifold gaskets and a throttle body gasket if you pull the intake. ECS replaced both and says they bend in service. Get the part numbers from ETK for your VIN.
  • Spare O-rings and clips for the coolant hoses you disconnect. On ECS's car, a thermostat-housing hose O-ring leaked on the first pressure test.
  • The plastic coolant elbow on the block. ECS found theirs "one bad day away" from failing, and a Bimmerpost DIY recommends replacing the block coolant connector while you're in there.

Upgrades while it's apart (from our store):

These don't replace the block-mounted housing or its gaskets. They replace the screw-on cap and filter that sit on top of it, which you'll have off during the job anyway.

Step-by-step: B58 oil filter housing gasket replacement

The order below follows the ECS video on a Gen 1 340i, which removes the intake manifold, with notes from the second DIY video and the Bimmerpost DIY threads. We didn't find a step-by-step written for the G20, G22, G42 or Supra. Use BMW repair info (ISTA) for your car alongside this guide, and follow it where it differs.

Stage 1: prep

  1. Work on a cold engine. You're opening the cooling system and handling hot oil.
  2. Disconnect the battery (10 mm). Then wait before touching the DME. ECS says not to pull it immediately after disconnecting the battery, and to ground yourself on the chassis before handling it.
  3. Raise the car on stands and remove the splash shield.
  4. Drain the coolant. ECS opens the expansion tank caps first so it drains faster, then pulls the lower radiator hose and a lower coolant hose. Have a big pan ready.
  5. Take photos and label connectors as you go. Both DIY videos and the Bimmerpost write-up stress this. You'll unplug dozens of connectors.

Stage 2: access

  1. Remove the top-side trim. On ECS's 340i, that's the cabin filter (rain) tray, the strut tower brace, the hood seal and the sound panel.
  2. Blow the area clean with compressed air. Dirt around the intake can fall into the runners once the manifold is off.
  3. Remove the DME and power distribution module, then their tray. Unplug the color-coded connectors, bag both modules, then unbolt the tray (two 8 mm bolts on the 340i) and release the wiring looms and fuel line clips. ECS says the tray took four hands and was harder than the intake manifold.
  4. Remove the intake manifold (if you're pulling it). Disconnect the purge valve, PCV line, sensor, throttle body plug, the coolant lines to the manifold's built-in charge cooler and the two E10 bracket bolts. Loosen the seven 10 mm bolts in BMW's sequence. ECS works from the outermost bolt in. Lift the manifold out and stuff rags in the intake ports.
  5. Remove the auxiliary coolant pump and the hoses in the way. ECS unplugs it and pulls it with its hoses but leaves the bracket. The Bimmerpost DIY says the same.

Stage 3: remove the housing

  1. Drain the oil. Remove the filter cap first so the housing drains into the sump, then pull the drain plug. ECS refits the plug and drains the oil a second time after the housing is off, in case coolant ran into the oil passages.
  2. Unclip everything attached to the housing. That means wiring loom clips, the auxiliary pump connector and the coolant hoses, including the one to the transmission cooler. One video notes a hidden connector low down that has to come off before the housing will clear.
  3. Undo the six E10 bolts. All six are captive in the housing with a small O-ring. When a bolt hits a hard stop while you're backing it out, it's on that O-ring, not seized. A Bimmerpost DIY says to remove the hard bolt under the coolant nozzle first, while you can still see it. ECS's tip: hold the new housing next to the old one to find the bolts you can't see.
  4. Work the housing out. It comes out at an angle. One video shows it has to be rotated and moved in front of the steering shaft to clear.

Stage 4: install

  1. Clean the block surface. Plug the passages with rags. Then clean off old gasket material, oil and any corrosion by hand. ECS uses a razor and Scotch-Brite and says not to use power tools. Don't gouge the aluminum.
  2. Fit the new gaskets, or prep the new housing. Make sure every seal is fully in its groove. ECS presses the captive bolts into the new housing and checks that the alignment dowels sit flush, so the housing seals flat. One video lightly oils the seals first. If you're reusing your oil cooler on a new housing, fit it with new 11428583897 gaskets.
  3. Fit the housing and start every bolt by hand. Make sure no wires or hoses are pinched behind it.
  4. Torque the housing bolts to BMW's spec and sequence. Use BMW repair info for your car. The two DIY videos used different tightening methods, and neither cites BMW. A torque wrench on the bottom bolt needs a long extension and a swivel.
  5. Refit the filter, cap, hoses, connectors and auxiliary pump. Check that every coolant hose clip is fully seated. ECS warns that a loose one will blow off under pressure, and then you take it all apart again.

Stage 5: pressure test before you close it up

  1. Pressure test the cooling system with the intake still loose. ECS reconnects the coolant lines, pressure tests, and only then bolts the manifold down. Their first test found a leak at a thermostat-housing hose. The Bimmerpost DIY also says to pressure test first.
  2. Refit the intake manifold. Use new gaskets, remove the rags from the ports first and check nothing fell in. Torque to BMW's spec in BMW's sequence. ECS does it in two passes. The Bimmerpost DIY warns that these bolts are weak and have low torque specs, so don't guess.
  3. Refit the DME tray, DME, power distribution module and trim. Use your photos to route every harness.

Stage 6: oil, priming and coolant

  1. Fill with oil. Use BMW-approved oil and the capacity from your manual or BMW repair info.
  2. Prime the oil system before the engine runs. BimmerWorld says the engine "must be primed with oil circulation before starting," and the empty housing, filter and passages need to fill. The method owners describe on Bimmerpost is to unplug the injectors and coil packs, crank the engine in short bursts to build oil pressure without firing, and let the starter cool between bursts. One owner needed two or three cranking sessions. We didn't find BMW's official priming procedure. Check ISTA for your car, and don't run the coolant bleed (which revs the engine) until you've confirmed oil pressure and plugged the injectors and coils back in.
  3. Fill and bleed the coolant. ECS vacuum-fills both the high-temperature and low-temperature (charge cooler) systems, then runs BMW's bleed routine with a charger on the battery. Ignition on without starting, heat to max with the fan on low, low beams on, then floor the accelerator for about 15 seconds to start the electric pump bleed. Keep topping up the low-temperature tank as it drops. ECS then runs a second bleed for the main system, with repeated short revs after starting. The routine varies by car, so follow BMW repair info for yours.
  4. Leak check, then recheck. Look over the housing, oil cooler and hose joints with the engine warm. Recheck the oil and both coolant levels after the first drive and again after a few heat cycles. Scan for codes.

Gen 1 vs Gen 2 vs Supra: what actually changes

  • Gen 1 F-chassis. Both DIY videos were shot on a 340i. The DME and power module sit on a tray at the strut tower that has to come out. Housing part 11428583895.
  • Gen 2 G-chassis. Same gasket set (11428583896) according to the parts listings. The housing part number depends on the car. ZTK-equipped G20, G22 and G42 cars use 11429488747. We didn't find a G-chassis-specific DIY, so expect a different layout for wiring and trim and use ISTA.
  • GR Supra. The engine is a B58TU like the Gen 2 BMWs, but the parts come with Toyota part numbers and the engine bay is packaged differently. We couldn't verify the Toyota number for the gasket set. Order by VIN from a Toyota dealer.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

  • Doing only the gaskets on a cracked or brittle housing. If the housing body is cracked, or your filter broke apart inside it, BMW's own guidance is to replace the complete housing.
  • Mixing up 11428583896 and 11428583897. The first seals the housing to the block. The second seals the oil cooler to the housing. They are different parts.
  • Losing track of connectors and harness routing. Photograph everything. The DME connectors are color-coded, but the routing isn't.
  • Dropping debris into the intake ports. Blow the area clean before the manifold comes off, plug the ports, and look inside before it goes back on.
  • Trusting a hose clip that "looked fine." Check every clip before you pressure test. Replace any hose O-ring that's flattened or nicked.
  • Skipping the pressure test. Finding a leak after the DME and intake are back on costs you the whole teardown again.
  • Guessing torque on plastic and small bolts. The housing and intake bolts thread into an aluminum block and plastic parts. Use BMW's values and a torque wrench.
  • Starting the engine dry. Prime the oil first.
  • Running an incomplete coolant bleed. Air in the system can cause overheating. Vacuum fill if you can, run the full bleed routine and recheck levels.

FAQ

How long does a B58 oil filter housing gasket replacement take?

Plan on a full day, and possibly a weekend if it's your first time. That's our estimate, not a published figure. ECS calls it labor intensive. A 540i owner reported a dealer quote of 11 shop hours for the housing.

Do I have to remove the intake manifold?

Not always. ECS and the Bimmerpost DIY writers remove it. One DIY video shows the job on a 340i with the intake left in place, after moving the DME, wiring tray and several hoses. Taking it off gives you more room for the hidden bolts.

Should I replace just the gaskets or the whole housing?

If the housing is cracked, or your oil filter broke apart inside it, replace the whole housing. That's BMW's guidance in SIB 11 03 21. If the housing is sound and only the seals have hardened, the gasket set (BMW 11428583896) is the minimum. Many owners replace the housing anyway because the plastic is the same age as the gaskets.

What are the BMW part numbers for the B58 oil filter housing gaskets?

11428583896 is the housing-to-block gasket set. 11428583897 is the oil cooler-to-housing gasket set. Confirm both against your VIN in a BMW parts catalog. For the GR Supra, get the Toyota number from a dealer.

Can a leaking oil filter housing mix oil and coolant?

The 2026 class action alleges that a failed housing can let coolant into the oil sump. We didn't find a BMW document confirming this on the B58. If your oil looks milky or you're losing coolant with no visible leak, stop driving and get a diagnosis.

Is there a recall or lawsuit for the B58 oil filter housing?

We found no recall. A proposed class action, Eiger v. BMW AG and BMW of North America (D.N.J. No. 2:26-cv-00753), was filed January 23, 2026, and names 2014 to 2021 BMW and MINI models with B46, B48 or B58 engines. Its claims are allegations. As of late October 2026 we didn't find a ruling or a settlement.

How do I prime the oil after replacing the housing?

BimmerWorld says the engine must be primed before it starts. Owners on Bimmerpost unplug the injectors and coils and crank in short bursts until oil pressure builds. We couldn't find BMW's official procedure, so check ISTA for your car.

What is the torque spec for the B58 oil filter housing bolts?

Use the value and sequence in BMW repair info for your car. The DIY sources we found don't agree with each other, and none of them quote BMW.

While the engine is apart, it's a good time to plan the rest of your build. See the best B58 mods, in order. M340i owners should read our M340i and M440i mods guide, and Supra owners our A90 Supra mods guide. If you're also doing fueling or charge pipe work, see the B58 fueling guide and the B58 charge pipe install guide.

Sources